The club coach buzzed with enthusiastic walkers heading for the Howgill Fells recently. The forecast had promised early low cloud with possible showers but most were undeterred by the prospect and a first group, at Ravenstonedale, donned waterproofs and headed towards Green Bell and the highest of the cloud-covered fells; a second group, got off outside the Fat Lamb pub,and headed over Harter Fell, whilst others opted for a low level walk beside the River Rawthey.
After the previous day’s heavy rain all knew that streams would be swollen and it wasn’t long before those at low level were looking for an alternative to wading, when their route encountered a flooded stream. Fortunately, there was a bridge 100 metres away. The second major stream was more difficult however. The bridge shown on the maps no longer existed. Some doubled back to get onto the road, whilst others waded and climbed the steep bank opposite. Soon after arrival at the Cross Keys, a temperance inn on the road north of Sedburgh, hot drinks and bacon sandwiches were served up by welcoming staff, the landlord giving the group a brief history of the Inn, where a building with a long Quaker connection has been standing since the 16th century. Suitably warmed, cheered and refreshed the group headed for the dramatic Cautley Spout waterfall; before following paths above the intake wall, with views over the river and along the valley towards Sedburgh.
The high level walkers were not so lucky, for they had to progress over steep hills in heavy cloud, no views and lots of accurate compass work in order to find the narrow cols between fells. The steeper slopes of Yarlside had many gasping as they struggled upwards and it was encouraging to find that, on arriving at the summit, there were signs of the cloud lifting, views opening up – thankfully all as forecast. Following a detour to catch a glimpse of Cautley Spout from above, the group descended to Bowderdale Head and then faced their second big climb of the day, lunch break being the reward for another tiring ascent (but no bacon sandwiches here, just cereal bars and high energy drinks!). The steeper climbs now behind them, The Calf was reached in bright sunshine.
It was about this time that  the second group, after descending from the summit of Harter Fell and climbing steeply up beside Cautley Spout to the ridge above, were spotted by the high level walkers as they progressed up toward the higher fells by way of Great Dummacks.
Distant views were enjoyed by all on the high ridges; the Shap Fells, Wild Boar, Whernside and Morecambe Bay all being clearly visible. Wild ponies now kept walkers company, whilst a lone sheepdog ‘wandering about on its own’, proved a distraction that helped take thoughts away from aching legs.
The descent down Settlebeck Gill towards Sedburgh, quite dramatic and steeper than expected, couldn’t come soon enough for those less fit! Most were now pleased to see Sedburgh ahead and, after changing into dry garments on the coach, made either for the nearest hostelry or the fish and chip shop.
All agreed it had been quite a tiring but inspiring day, something of a classic! Some slumbered, most were quiet and subdued on the return coach journey, indicating it had been another grand day out!
Alan Holmes, Email: ahpatsol@btinternet.com